Sneaker Diary: Vans Authentic

When it comes to trainers I've never been one for big statements. I'm more conscious of the overall picture and combining things in a cohesive way. For me, a shoe represents that make or break element - it needs to interact with an outfit rather than stand alone. I think that's why I struggle with a lot of trainers. I can appreciate the classics; I'll watch 'Do The Right Thing' and always come away wanting a pair of Jordans or Air Trainers, but when it comes down to it, I just end up admiring them from afar. In reality, I tend to wear more simple things and often don't wear trainers at all. Growing up I loved Desert Boots and Wallabees, and that hasn't really changed. When I did branch out, grey Nike Air Epics crept into the rotation, but beyond that I've only ever needed one of trainer - the focus of this feature, and possibly my all-time favourite shoe: the MADE IN U.S.A. Vans Authentic.

Writer
—Simon Roe

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  The MADE IN U.S.A. aspect is key, but that's based on shape and some important lost details rather than patriotism or current trends. You can still walk into most footwear stores in the world and pick up a pair of Authentics. A lot of people do, but I'm not one of them. It's not about a vintage obsession or wanting to be different, it's just that the current edition is simply missing many of the elements that made it special - to me anyway.

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  I'll admit that any blue version will always have those Dogtown associations. As an iconic part of their uniform its place in history is certainly secure. The existing white ones still work as a staple, the black versions offer a little more practicality and the red provide some welcome colour. However, if you look more closely, they're not the same shoe. The intention's there, but something's different; not quite right. I understand that things evolve or need to be modified and I'm not against that. What I do find difficult though, is when the original version is altered without improvement. That probably seems fussy, but I know what I like.

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  I loved getting a new pair of U.S. Authentics. There were a couple of sources in London and I'd always go for the white or navy. Most recently they came in a brown box, usually battered and a bit dusty, as if it had been on a journey. Along the side ran the words "made by hand in U.S.A.", and as you lifted the lid you knew what you were getting. Your shoes were wrapped in unbranded brown paper and it always stuck to the midsole as you pulled them out. If I'd gone for blue, the neat white stitching stood out against the dark canvas, always brighter than I remembered. With the white, you were guaranteed some visible traces of glue on the upper but that just added to their charm; they felt perfectly imperfect. Whichever colour I'd chosen, the other elements remained the same. The shape was refined, slim and slightly pointed towards the toe, the Vans tag below the third and forth eyelets was oversized and finally, on the lower profile sole, the simple white box on the heel read: VANS MADE IN U.S.A.

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  These are the only Authentics I've ever owned. Most people are happy with the modern equivalent and there's nothing wrong with that, but I can't settle for less. I guess it's about what you know and for me the current Authentic just seems bloated. It's the product of its own history, suffering from factory changes and a long term lack of attention - the laces aren't even a considered length anymore. Then there's the quality. I'm not about to pretend the U.S. editions lasted like a pair of Tricker's, but they did age gracefully. The canvas was tougher and the overall shoe was definitely more sturdy. The vulcanized sole made the shoe way more comfortable too. Combine that with the other details and you're starting to get the picture - the original U.S. made ones were simply better.

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  Don't get me wrong, I truly treasure Vans as a brand, but it's increasingly in a historical sense. I've bought some of the Supreme and Wtaps collaborations in recent years, but when it comes to the real classics, I've got nowhere to turn and that's where the frustration sets in.

  
  

  In the words of Junya Watanabe, all I want is "something that has history, that has a traditional shape". A pair of MADE IN U.S.A. Authentics gave me that and I love them for it, but I'm down to my last few pairs... —

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