The Anti-fit

Made popular by Americana work wear, made available by Daiki Suzuki via Engineered Garments and Woolrich Woolen Mills and made awesome by great Japanese styling. While a lot of us have grown with more traditional 'fits' of slim pants, denim, jackets and shirting, there is something extremely appealing in the aesthetic conducted by some of Japan's designers and stylists which page homage to some classic Americana pieces. The baggy work pants, loose fitting blazer, wool vests, big knotted ties and more often than not, some great boots. A great example can be found in the last two Engineered Garments look books. It is however a slightly tough transition from a slim, well fitted outfit, to either incorporate some of these pieces or go all the way into the 'anti-fit'. I personally really like the look and have been doing a more slow incorporation with a couple items. It's been a common topic with a couple friends lately so I thought I should touch on the subject. When done right, there isn't much better, but doing it right isn't a particularly easy task unless you're buying full EG collections and happen to be aesthetically blessed.

I think the keys are cohesive materials, tonal colors, use of wools and the footwear and how the pants hit the shoe. Of course these are general points but any of them done right or wrong can make or break the entire look.

Comments

[Will Rees]

Good call.

I agree that one of the main keys is how the pant plays off the shoe. I don't think the look works as well with the pants rolled up, as in the last photo, versus when the pant is tucked into a boot.

I wonder too if a cargo-like pocket on the pants is vital - the look seems more clear in its intent with their presence, to my eye.

[Simon]

Along with the points you make in your final sentence, I think the other key to this silhouette is that while the garments aren't super slim they're also not baggy.

The shirting and jackets are wider in the body but close attention is still paid to length and the fit of the shoulders. The trousers are wide compared with recent standards but still have a considered shape.

Overall, I think this fit maintains the authenticity of these garments which is what makes them work so well.

[Björn]

As a firm beliver, and wearer of "anti fit" styles, Id say getting stuff in the right size is necessary, so stuff fits loose but "right". Also, proportions are key, and as the orginal post said, paying attention to how pants fall on shoes etc are a part of getting this right: Its easy to throw of the proportions if wide pants are worn too long for instance, or with soles that are too thick.
But you slim fit guys will be surprised how comfortable it is to wear clothes that doesnt restrict your movements...