Wednesday
Feb042009
Spring Buyers Guide: 8/64
Posted on 
February 4, 2009 by Ryan Willms
February 4, 2009 by Ryan Willms 
Well I just finished clicking through the highly extensive Buyers Guide for Spring 09 put together by Mens.Style.com and several of the top stores in the USA, from big to small. First off I would like to say thanks to Steven Torres for taking a lot of really nice product shots, along with the rest of team over there. It was well done for the most part. I guess my bone picking is more directed to the buyers featured in the article. Now I'm not running a store, not trying to pump up my own zebra pattern collaboration or buying for a huge department store, so my opinion is just that, my opinion. I do feel like I have a pretty good idea of what looks good and what I might actually think about buying. No I'm not in a huff because nobody picked anything by Engineered Garments. But I went through the whole feature and only pulled 8 out of the 60-something products. For the most part it was the smaller shops that had the items I liked, unsurprisingly. Odin, Blackbird, South Willard, Opening Ceremony and Jake all came through with an item or two. So what are the top picks that will save you clicking your mouse 73+ times? Woolrich Woolen Mills Upland jacket, Patrik Ervell grey blazer, Kolor double breasted blazer, Common Projects canvas safari boots, Quoddy blutchers, Our Legacy cable knit, Band of Outsiders plaid shorts and the blue corduroy YSL shorts. There you go, that's all you need this spring, notice how they all even look good together.------------
Turns out Ryan and I wrote a post on the same thing at the same time, so for what it's worth here's how I feel about it. GQ's buyers guides are generally good. Their shop selection is good, each owner/buyer's picks are usually pretty good and it's always interesting to hear their forecasts. However, their latest installment for Spring is not bad, but slightly frustrating. Everyone knows the state of the economy, so I agree with quotes like these: "Spring 2009 is the next stage in the evolution of the modern, style-conscious man's wardrobe, and one that focuses on investment pieces." and, "...invest in must-have fashion that is memorable and adds value." They make sense, we as consumers should be buying smarter. Which is why I'm confused as to how one could consider a $275 deconstructed sweater (aka 2 sweaters cut in half and sewn back together) or a $1,715 blazer with paint splattered on it a good wardrobe investment. Unfortunately there are a handful of other not so great picks. I get that the guide is a marketing tool for these stores but it's not that hard to select items for promotion that are actually smart buys; just like most of the independent boutiques did. In addition to the stuff above, I don't mind the look of the Acne x Lanvin overcoat (but denim?) and the Marc Jacobs bomber (I'd rather a Baracuta though) for those inevitable spring showers. I'll give them half a point each to make it 9/64.
-OP
Reader Comments (10)
Well, to be fair, if you are currently being gravely affected - or expect to be gravely affected - by our economy's downfall, you shouldn't be paying for 300 dollar cotton pullovers and 400 dollar canvas sneakers in the first place.
But then clearly we must not be that affected to be investing time in looking at this stuff.
(Great zine byt the way).
definitely agree with what you're saying, those were pretty much my picks too.
its just not a great 'buyers' guide' is it - surely its meant to guide people on good things to buy this spring (obviously) and at this, it completely fails. I bet you very very few people will be interested in the majority of items. i mean seriously, $275 swimming trunks in the current economic climate? i'm all for including big ticket items but there are simply too many and for the most part they definitely aren't the investment pieces the article claims.
most of the denim is foul too.
to be honest, there is a very clear yet subtle difference between what you write about here mainly and what is in that buyers guide- reverting back to products that sucked 20 years ago and now dressing them up as classics is what is happening here, apart from the few new brands that actually are making it happen.
I love that blazer from Kolor. Too bad I lost my job in august and I haven't earned a cent since then. And with no income at all except the little my mother can give me, this guide only causes me pain. A great deal of pain.
I guarantee that if you look at Acne's extensive denim collection, you are bound to find at least a couple pairs you like. Acne has some of the best designs on the market whether you know it or not. They are ahead of the game and people are trying to catch up. Not all of their collections are strong however. Some of their designs, shoes especially, are misguided. Have you ever tried on any of their stuff Ryan? They have a vast range of fits and there is undoubtedly one for you. Their largest problem is their prices because they are a Stockholme brand and all their products are imported.
why are the quoddy shoes so much more less expensive at south willard than anywhere else, including quoddy's site?
http://www.southwillard.com/designers/accessories/quoddy-shoes/black-blucher/
From all the selections I saw, only a few stood out most because not just simply the designed garment but how the fabric and composition was delivered. For me, the Our Legacy cable knit sweater was fantastic which I definitely would love to have. Other notable pieces I thought were credible were the Raf Simons suiting, Petar Petrov shirt and the leather bomber from Robert Geller as it comes in the combination of lambswool and linen. Also, the pieces from Van Noten of South Willard are as always, superb.
There is a juxtaposition to this buyer's guide though because a few of the stores shown are more luxury high-end stores or departments so designers like Jacobs would appear. I have to point out that a Balenciaga cardigan for $800 is quite absurd. Sorry to Nicholas but even a beautiful cardigan from Van Noten or Demeulemeester is a much more worthwhile investment.
P.S. I also forgot the square grid shirt from Schneider is also great.
@james: yeah :/ we all have to make great sacrifices on our purchases as of late. it's nice to imagine and construct fits in our minds though / a little e and window shoppin never hurts haha
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