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Tuesday
Mar162010

In Stock: Levi's Vintage Clothing

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You may have noticed that we've just added some LVC denim to the Stockroom. We've selected the three styles that we consider the strongest in the line and we're really excited to be working with such an iconic brand. For the first issue of the magazine I wrote a short piece about LVC and it really sums up why we've chosen to work with them. I think it also provides some helpful background on sizing, shrinkage and washing. With that in mind and by way of an introduction, I've included an except here, alongside some photos of LVC jeans I've worn from raw.

For the last 10 years, whenever I've needed a pair of jeans, I've only bought raw denim from the Levi's Vintage Clothing collection. It's not the most premium option, many Japanese brands potentially offer something better, but my connection to Levi's is stronger. I suppose it comes down to heritage; that's the brand that resonates most with me, so that's what I wear. Vintage pieces may be the ideal option, but prices can be prohibitive and you rarely get to start from scratch. LVC's reproductions provide access to an aesthetic - a middle ground between vintage and modern. I don't want to collect things and keep them hidden away. I want to wear the things I love, and at the very least be able to buy a replacement faithful to the original. LVC gives me that opportunity, I'm grateful for that, and I doubt I'll ever wear anything else.



In London, and Europe in general, these jeans are a staple and have been for some time but I remember buying a pair for the first time - there seemed so much to consider.
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I know a lot of people are confused by the seemingly random numbers used to describe each jean. The three digit number refers to the style, but when it comes to 501s, there's been so many versions, most people use the year to be more specific. It's a style that didn't stand still, changing regularly in response to demand, fashion and even law; each new edition defined by subtle differences in shape and detail. If you hear someone using a two digit number in relation to a pair of Levi's, it will almost always refer to the year, and in turn the features, of a particular 501.


Something else that seems to concern people is the sizing. If there's one thing you're guaranteed from all LVC raw denim (except the 505) it's shrinkage - don't let anyone tell you otherwise. If you wash them, they will shrink. Levi's suggest a little more shrinkage on the waist than I've experienced, but it's a good guideline and buying a size up is definitely worthwhile. They may seem big to begin with, but they'll always end up the right size. It's hard to be exact as it depends how you wash them, but at 40 degrees they usually shrink an inch on the waist and 3 in the length. The only way to avoid this is not to wash them at all, and if that's what you plan on doing, buy your actual size.
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Personally, I think machine washing never hurts; over time it creates a much stronger contrast, but I wouldn't do it right away. The one thing I'd do before anything else is soak them. Levi's suggest 10 minutes, but to me that isn't long enough. Turn them inside out and lay them in a bath of cold water for about 3 hours. That causes a decent amount of shrinkage and leg twist. Then spin them in the washing machine to get rid of any excess water, put them on while they're still damp and wear them until they're dry, setting in all the creases. After that, just wear them a lot and be patient. The longer you leave the first machine wash, the better they'll look down the line. When they do need washing, turn them inside out, do them on their own and don't use fabric conditioner.


Other people may have a different approach, but that's what I've always done and it's worked for me. That said, there's no right or wrong. Certain things are worth considering to begin with, but once you've started wearing them, the less you worry about a set of rules the better. —

Available at the Inventory Stockroom


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Reader Comments (21)

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spare us the lesson, some of us have been wearing selvedge when you were in diapers.
those jeans look shit, washed out ...

March 16, 2010 | Unregistered Commenterrob

The cone denim used in LVC is the finest denim one can find on the market. You improve the denim by increasing the weight. Thus the heaviest pair I have ever seen were 21 oz selvage done by iron heart, as opposed to the 12 oz denim used in LVC. LVC's main goal is to reproduce vintage levis to spec. Personally, I cant really see a reason to buy 21 oz denim

March 16, 2010 | Unregistered Commenterlvc

By the way, my compliments for pricing the jeans correctly. As LVC filters into our side of the world, I find more and more stockists are taking an unreasonable markup. Kudos

March 16, 2010 | Unregistered Commenterlvc

"LVC’s reproductions provide access to an aesthetic – a middle ground between vintage and modern."

Look, buy what you like, but cut the bullshit justifications. If you like American brands over Japanese brands, just say so. I don't even understand the first paragraph.

March 16, 2010 | Unregistered Commenterjosh

lol, selvedge thugs...
they're just clothes, my man. smile, the world is a beautiful place.

and if you can't, make your own clothes that no one else can wear. you might smile then, but it's not guaranteed.

kudos, ryan.

March 16, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterBryan

Well put, Bryan.
Agreed on the price point, lvc.
Curse my 28W.

March 17, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterRobert D. Junior

nice rob, although it seems like you need a lesson. Selvedge denim is made on shuttle looms and began to phase out when wide looms were created. Thus of course people were wearing selvedge when some of us were in diapers because IT WAS THE ONLY DENIM AVAILABLE. And Briyan, this is a site based around clothing. If you don't like hearing it, don't read.

March 17, 2010 | Unregistered Commenterthanks rob

so many haters hatin. glad to see levis getting some love in all the denim talk. tired of hearing about apc. also, love how washed out those look.

March 17, 2010 | Unregistered Commenterchris

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March 17, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterHipolito M. WisemNn

I'll dig out all the early LVC point of sale/brouchures/books and some rare clothing we have and blog them when I get a chance. Some cracking stuff knocking about the shop.

March 17, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterGareth

Ha. I love that people get upset when others try to offer advice or help. What is there to cry about? If you know your shit already, then hats off to you. On the other hand, I'm quite into hints and tips.

I also am feeling the love, cherish, and re-patch mentality.

Good stuff.

March 17, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterJ.S

Thanks for sharing, I found this story while googling for http://www.musiclyricsnow.net/" rel="nofollow">lyrics, useful comments and good points made.

March 17, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterHayley Brierley

whats the weight on these

March 17, 2010 | Unregistered Commenterjaws

arguing about selvedge denim is so two-thousand and late.

move along.... if you don;t know, now you know.

March 17, 2010 | Unregistered Commenterkyx

@kyx "two-thousand and late" seriously

im not a particular fan of LVC japanese brands like the Flat Head give you better fades and better quality denim

March 17, 2010 | Unregistered Commenterak

ok, id like to start a petition for wearers in need of a 28" waist. i know i cant be the only style minded person with a small waist....seriously, why is it so ridiculously hard for me to find any of these LVC's in a size 28??

March 17, 2010 | Unregistered Commenterdavid

LVC dont make jeans smaller than a 30" waist. bar the 505 they all shrink to fit, but some start out bigger/shrink less. your best bet would be a 1947 which comes up small on the waist anyway and shrinks down the full 2"s. youd definitely end up with a 28"w out of them.

March 18, 2010 | Unregistered Commenterc

Richard...

This is probably my favorite post on your site. nice....

March 18, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterRichard

thanks c! i was skeptical at first but i just soaked them in cold water then layed them flat to dry and ill be damned they shrunk up just right. i have always been a skeptic when anything claims to shrink that much but looks like im eating crow this time. thanks a bunch.

March 19, 2010 | Unregistered Commenterdavid

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