The Head Porter Plus collection seems to be getting more and more refined each season. This fall, from what I've seen, the patterns, materials and details are very tame and we are now starting to see grey wool slacks in the mix. There are still the classic chinos and oxfords to count on, but you could easily find your self dressing up a little more this fall. The black window pane shirt is a good subtle pattern and easy to work into the rotation while the belt and slacks are probably the two pieces I would buy. All are available at honeyee's online shop, but there is a rumor that the HP+ collection will be back in North America sooner than later.
With all of the leather companies and designers in the world, there are still only a handful of people making really great belts. The Whiley Brothers make their belts from the finest bridle and cordovan leather on their farm in Pennsylvania, USA. Ian Paley from Garbstore tracked down the fine artisans and had a few styles made up specially for his London shop. This harness belt in tan with brass hardware is my favorite version of the selection. The simple design, ideal size and sturdy materials are just what I need in a belt.
This great piece from A.P.C. includes a couple of my favorite things this fall - cardigans and flecked wool. They've mashed up perfectly here and topped off by the soft blend including %30 cashmere. A.P.C.'s knits, like most of the collection, are more often than not right on point. Nice slim cuts, sturdy materials and an understated aesthetic are all constants and are emphasized with this cardigan. It would be easy to wear this sweater 4 days a week and not really have a problem with it. It works nice with many options, layered and on it's own with a white tee shirt. If you're not nearby an A.P.C. flagship, then you can check out the cardigan at End.
Just when you think you might have seen every version of the tote bag possible, Makr has put together a very nice new bag. The Snap Tote is Made in the USA from some of the finest tote bag materials known to man. Besides the heavy duck cotton, deer tanned leather and gunmetal snaps that hold this subtle beauty together, the bag brings an interesting handle design forth. The all black bag looks really durable and comes in a very handy size for daily use. The key ring and clean interior branding round off this gem in the right way. Having both shorter and longer handles look great in the photos and would likely work well in the field, but I am curious to find how it feels in your hand and if having 4 handle loops in total would really be a benefit. That said, the bag looks great and follows suit with Makr's recent products.
I have an illness and the only cure is more oxford cloth - or something like that. I honestly can't get enough oxford shirts, however until recently it's been almost exclusively button down collars. My desires are now fixated on the white contrast club collars at Tres Bien. I don't think anybody makes this shirt better than Gitman and yet we still have to go to Sweden to find them. The club collar works well buttoned all the way up on its own, but I'm particularly fond of pairing it with a bow tie right now, and those soft stripes are just making that option more appealing. The shirts themselves are classic 2 ply oxford cloth which is nice and solid for the winter, but really do work year round. Both of these are soon to be added to my closet where they will be met by plaid and grey ties and casual sport coats. The look is definitely done best by the Trad community or those residing in the far east - both recommended influences for getting dressed.
When it comes to making custom versions of anything, subtlety often goes a long way. There's always a temptation to do a lot when faced with a blank canvas but it's sometimes better to do less than you immediately think. During my time at Duffer, we always had a good selection of 'made to order' Tricker's in stock. I picked up a few great pairs over the years, some of them very similar to what Junya is doing now. However, it's the simple options that I tend to wear more regularly and The Bureau might well have produced my next pair. Their 'made to order' editions are always very considered. They seem to make just the right amount of changes, ensuring the outcome is interesting but also understated. These saddle shoes are a prime example. I'm not always a fan of the style but the tonal approach they've taken is perfect. The rich shade of brown is beautiful, and the combination of scotch grain and broguing across the saddle and heel adds subtle depth. I also like the Dainite sole. It's practical and a good middle ground between leather and the heavier commando option. Overall, it's a great interpretation of a classic, one that's perfectly suited to regular winter wear and will only get better with age.
Ripstop seems to be one of Daiki's favorite materials this fall and I'm not complaining. Coming in a beautiful red, this field jacket has a certain pop to it that would bring a little life into any get up. The cotton shell is function in keeping the elements off your back while the wool lining is nice and warm. I'm not usually too into zip up only jackets, sweaters or anything, but the balance of the pockets and look of the collar and neck somehow make this version appealing. It definitely feels like a piece more geared towards the outdoors, so don't hesitate to pair it up with some Bean boots and shovel your driveway in a couple months. Of course there are more enjoyable outdoor activities you could try with the field jacket, either way it looks great. Available at Farinelli's
Our three part series on cargo pants last month received a lot of comments. Many of you were against the idea and seemed quite steadfast in your views. I fully understand that and though I still believe the right pair are a good option, I don't expect everyone to agree. These, on the other hand, feel like the perfect middle ground. They may have a similar aesthetic but I also think they'd be much easier to wear. The key is probably the absence of thigh pockets which makes the overall appearance a bit more refined. Part of EG's Workaday collection, they feature the same high quality and attention to detail as the main line. They're made from reversed sateen and the mid-green would work well with almost anything. This versatility also extends to the styling. The front and back pockets provide a point of interest but don't intrude too much, ensuring a more subtle military reference. If you're not convinced by cargo pants but want an alternative to denim, cords and chinos, these are definitely worth considering.