Spring Buyers Guide: 8/64
February 4, 2009 by Ryan Willms 
Well I just finished clicking through the highly extensive Buyers Guide for Spring 09 put together by Mens.Style.com and several of the top stores in the USA, from big to small. First off I would like to say thanks to Steven Torres for taking a lot of really nice product shots, along with the rest of team over there. It was well done for the most part. I guess my bone picking is more directed to the buyers featured in the article. Now I'm not running a store, not trying to pump up my own zebra pattern collaboration or buying for a huge department store, so my opinion is just that, my opinion. I do feel like I have a pretty good idea of what looks good and what I might actually think about buying. No I'm not in a huff because nobody picked anything by Engineered Garments. But I went through the whole feature and only pulled 8 out of the 60-something products. For the most part it was the smaller shops that had the items I liked, unsurprisingly. Odin, Blackbird, South Willard, Opening Ceremony and Jake all came through with an item or two. So what are the top picks that will save you clicking your mouse 73+ times? Woolrich Woolen Mills Upland jacket, Patrik Ervell grey blazer, Kolor double breasted blazer, Common Projects canvas safari boots, Quoddy blutchers, Our Legacy cable knit, Band of Outsiders plaid shorts and the blue corduroy YSL shorts. There you go, that's all you need this spring, notice how they all even look good together.
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Turns out Ryan and I wrote a post on the same thing at the same time, so for what it's worth here's how I feel about it. GQ's buyers guides are generally good. Their shop selection is good, each owner/buyer's picks are usually pretty good and it's always interesting to hear their forecasts. However, their latest installment for Spring is not bad, but slightly frustrating. Everyone knows the state of the economy, so I agree with quotes like these: "Spring 2009 is the next stage in the evolution of the modern, style-conscious man's wardrobe, and one that focuses on investment pieces." and, "...invest in must-have fashion that is memorable and adds value." They make sense, we as consumers should be buying smarter. Which is why I'm confused as to how one could consider a $275 deconstructed sweater (aka 2 sweaters cut in half and sewn back together) or a $1,715 blazer with paint splattered on it a good wardrobe investment. Unfortunately there are a handful of other not so great picks. I get that the guide is a marketing tool for these stores but it's not that hard to select items for promotion that are actually smart buys; just like most of the independent boutiques did. In addition to the stuff above, I don't mind the look of the Acne x Lanvin overcoat (but denim?) and the Marc Jacobs bomber (I'd rather a Baracuta though) for those inevitable spring showers. I'll give them half a point each to make it 9/64.
-OP
The collection has now arrived around the globe at a number of shops like 
If this steezy old chap doesn't look like he just wrapped a Band of Outsiders look-book then I don't know. I grew up watching Mr. Rogers and the trolley and all of the wonderful adventures of the fairly odd show. Little did I know I would be looking back over a decade later and the casual-preppy look being done better than I see it on the streets today. Maybe Mr. Rogers had a good stylist but I have a feeling he had a knack for that sneaker, nice button down oxfords, collegiate ties and perfectly colored cardigans. Even the cropped pleated chinos look pretty fresh. After looking through the photos from the last couple weeks of international fashion shows, I'd say that Fred would have been holding his weight in the off runway scene with a couple minor updates and a nice leather tote bag. His style didn't go unnoticed as he pulled in an Emmy, got a star in LA on the sidewalk and touched a lot of children with his show and work off the screen. There have probably been a couple designers looking at these pictures for the last couple seasons, and probably a few more that should have been.
Things have become very disposable in fashion in the last couple years and that is nothing new or unknown. Blogs are not entirely responsible for that as it's been happening for years, but they certainly haven't helped the cause. The fairly recent return to classic, hand made, made in the USA or Canada attention is a great thing. Unfortunately, even that has it's problems. As we've seen Quoddy's prices seem to have gone up substantially as the latest round of Rogues Gallery boots are coming in at $528 US => $655 Canadian. Now I'm not saying they are a rip-off or anything, I think they are great, but the price is no doubt hard to swallow. So here I am to remind you that here in Vancouver, BC are some really nice, hand made moccasins by Ken Diamond. Ken and Jolene source all of the materials themselves, most of it comes from here in the city and every hole and stitch is done in their small studio. You can choose your leather color from a really nice palette and have a pair of these beauties back to you in a matter of weeks. So while prices are on the rise, there are still relatively good deals to be had while getting something really special with a focus on the made by hand detailing Ken has perfected. Last I checked they were $320 Canadian for a custom/personally order. That's only about $255 US if my currency calculator is right.
Contact ken@kendiamond.com or 604 669 4179 for a pair.
