You may have noticed that we've just added some LVC denim to the Stockroom. We've selected the three styles that we consider the strongest in the line and we're really excited to be working with such an iconic brand. For the first issue of the magazine I wrote a short piece about LVC and it really sums up why we've chosen to work with them. I think it also provides some helpful background on sizing, shrinkage and washing. With that in mind and by way of an introduction, I've included an except here, alongside some photos of LVC jeans I've worn from raw. For the last 10 years, whenever I've needed a pair of jeans, I've only bought raw denim from the Levi's Vintage Clothing collection. It's not the most premium option, many Japanese brands potentially offer something better, but my connection to Levi's is stronger. I suppose it comes down to heritage; that's the brand that resonates most with me, so that's what I wear. Vintage pieces may be the ideal option, but prices can be prohibitive and you rarely get to start from scratch. LVC's reproductions provide access to an aesthetic - a middle ground between vintage and modern. I don't want to collect things and keep them hidden away. I want to wear the things I love, and at the very least be able to buy a replacement faithful to the original. LVC gives me that opportunity, I'm grateful for that, and I doubt I'll ever wear anything else. — In London, and Europe in general, these jeans are a staple and have been for some time but I remember buying a pair for the first time - there seemed so much to consider. I know a lot of people are confused by the seemingly random numbers used to describe each jean. The three digit number refers to the style, but when it comes to 501s, there's been so many versions, most people use the year to be more specific. It's a style that didn't stand still, changing regularly in response to demand, fashion and even law; each new edition defined by subtle differences in shape and detail. If you hear someone using a two digit number in relation to a pair of Levi's, it will almost always refer to the year, and in turn the features, of a particular 501. Something else that seems to concern people is the sizing. If there's one thing you're guaranteed from all LVC raw denim (except the 505) it's shrinkage - don't let anyone tell you otherwise. If you wash them, they will shrink. Levi's suggest a little more shrinkage on the waist than I've experienced, but it's a good guideline and buying a size up is definitely worthwhile. They may seem big to begin with, but they'll always end up the right size. It's hard to be exact as it depends how you wash them, but at 40 degrees they usually shrink an inch on the waist and 3 in the length. The only way to avoid this is not to wash them at all, and if that's what you plan on doing, buy your actual size. Personally, I think machine washing never hurts; over time it creates a much stronger contrast, but I wouldn't do it right away. The one thing I'd do before anything else is soak them. Levi's suggest 10 minutes, but to me that isn't long enough. Turn them inside out and lay them in a bath of cold water for about 3 hours. That causes a decent amount of shrinkage and leg twist. Then spin them in the washing machine to get rid of any excess water, put them on while they're still damp and wear them until they're dry, setting in all the creases. After that, just wear them a lot and be patient. The longer you leave the first machine wash, the better they'll look down the line. When they do need washing, turn them inside out, do them on their own and don't use fabric conditioner. Other people may have a different approach, but that's what I've always done and it's worked for me. That said, there's no right or wrong. Certain things are worth considering to begin with, but once you've started wearing them, the less you worry about a set of rules the better. — Available at the Inventory Stockroom
I generally haven't been a fan of the tote bags made with rope for handles and over the top sailing references, but Saint James seem to have got it just right. The colors are nicely washed out, the details are subtle and the stripes work perfectly on the tote. Although it's obviously very nautical, I wouldn't feel bad carrying it around town. The duffle bag also has great color tones in the blues, off-white and reds, but the shape seems a bit odd. I'm sure it would still be great for stuffing full of gear, swim trunks and a couple of shirts however. —
Taking a nice bit of inspiration from brands like Patagonia, Daiki has infused the surfing influence really nicely beyond the beach shorts and printed short sleeves. This pull over is a great spring piece that definitely lands on the casual side of the closet. I've been trying it on every couple of days since receiving a box of Woolen Mills samples and definitely would like to have one for myself. Odin is the only shop to receive the full sleeve version that I know of but their prices are suspiciously high I have to admit.
This new Japanese brand, Good Thing, seems to have popped up out of nowhere and definitely has my attention. Their spring look book has some beautiful photographs with great lighting, nice styling and a very casual and wearable look. You might argue that you can easily accomplish the same look and feel from brands like Save Khaki, and you might be right in the most basic terms. But it is worth noting how a brand like this is doing a much nicer job with their overall look and feel. Their simple shirts are among the product I'm interested in seeing in person and I would definitely look forward to seeing more from Good Thing. —
For the most part Baracuta's collaborations and the end products have all be great. Working with Beams, Junya Watanabe and Margaret Howell alone are some of the best names in the world, add in J.Crew on their current run and there are some great looking G9s and G4s available. I particularly like this light color, light weight version for Margaret Howell. The lining is a nice change of pace and sits perfectly with their woven labels. It's an interesting choice to go with the G3 model but this color lends itself well to a year round wear while being the ideal layer for the months ahead.
—01. Great use of the white bucks with fatigue shors.
—02. Nicely tucked in shirt with metallic parka.
Well of course it is, it's the most popular brand ever, on our blog... Again Mister Crew gives us the heads up on a beautifully shoot spring/summer spread in the latest issue of HUGE magazine featuring the current collection. The styling is done by Daiki Suzuki, which offers an obvious change of pace from the brand's look book, but offers a great perspective on how to pair up some of the different fabrics and patterns. I love the close up shot of the fleece striped tie, polka dot shirt and polka dot belt - a very well executed spread.
Here's a lovely pair of Alden shoes that you can't even complain about only being available in Japan. In fact, they aren't available anywhere unless Mr. Wayne Pate decides to sell these. While many people often question why shops or Alden don't make this or that, or that it's too much to order from Japan, they still never order directly from Alden. Mr. Pate is not one of those people and he has now had a few personal orders come out looking very good. This suede long wing comes with the plantation sole is a great example of the subtle changes you can put together to have a very unique shoe. I love the colour and I'm really liking the choice of sole on the long wing. A classic American style, but really paired down made casual is just the sort of thing I love. These would look great with so many options of pants, now they just need some dry weather out east. —
It's been a long wait for myself after buying from the collection last summer. The first delivery from a brand is always a bit extra exciting and also a little bit nerve racking as you don't really know if people are going to like what you've ordered. That said, with Yuketen's spring shoes I felt pretty excited and I knew they were going to be well accepted. This spring I wanted to keep the selection edited and tight and the common theme was to have crepe soles across the board. The first two models that have arrived are probably my favorites as they really feel extra special and utilize the sole, leather and Yuketen aesthetic perfectly. The Country Loafer and Country Ranger are probably some of the best shoes available from anybody this season. They quality of the leathers and construction is incredible and you can feel it as soon as you handle or put on the shoes. It's no surprise they've already been going quickly, so if your size is still around I wouldn't wait long. Both pairs now available at the Inventory Stockroom —