Thom Browne recently showed his fall 2009 collection in New York, and fortunately for us men.style.com has nearly 60 images of great stuff. The only pieces I can't personally get too excited about are the coats with a bit of a flare. They are just a bit on the feminine side for me, and I don't find come off well in the looks. Otherwise, the collection is actually pretty tame, with a nice infusion of great patterns, some bold reds and of course the one piece grey suit. Thom slid that one in there nicely and I almost missed it. While I would never wear it, I really appreciate the unique twist on his aesthetic and I think it came out great. In terms of items I want to wear a lot, the knits look amazing, the Mac coat and more classic grey suits are also really great looking. I'm a fan of the white stripes on the arm as well, it works nicely on the blazer as well as the knits. The military cruiser coat is also worth mentioning as it's probably the most wearable piece. Clean lines, nice waist belt and simple grey or black colorway, what is there to complain about - other than the price, so start saving now.
Entries in Thom Browne (5)
While Thom Browne has received more good press than he probably knows what to do with this year, I still really haven't seen too many photos of the inside of his New York boutique. When I visited New York last month, the 100 Hudson location was on the top of my list to visit. Having not seen many images, I wasn't sure what to expect, it was a really interesting little space that definitely reminded me of a small bank from the 1980s. The rolling racks held beautiful sweaters and suits construction all around the world, featuring materials from an even further reach. It was incredible seeing each piece having a 'Made in Scotland', 'Made in Egypt' and so on. It seemed like each different color had a reason to be made somewhere different. The decor was almost non existent, but managed to work. The old couch and coffee table were complimented nicely by the unused glass ash tray to separate two racks of $4,000+ pieces. Like many, I'm a sideline fan of Mr. Browne's work, and his retail location was no different. I do plan on getting into a piece or two when I can, but for now, I'm happy to look.
Thom Browne's suits have been going with thick black wingtips for a little while now. I've personally not been able to get a close look at the model he wears before they went on sale at Colette with the collection. These are definitely some beautiful looking leather shoes. Made in England, from probably the nicest leather out there - I'm only guessing. Thom Browne's collection is made all around the word. Knits from the UK, shoes from England, cottons from Sea Island, shirts made in the USA etc etc. The man is very passionate about the right materials being put together in the right places, so when it comes to the price - it's high. There is no doubt with the personal touch and attention to every detail, it will cost the consumer in the end. So here you have THE wingtips that complete and compliment your (dream) Thom Browne suit. If you can afford the suit, you might be able to get these at 1,250 Euro.
Colette seems to be busier than ever these days with their shop-in-shops and collaborations. So why not team up with another busy character in Thom Browne to showcase the complete spring collection. With obvious inspirations from the grass courts, Thom has taken his shrunken silhouettes in a slightly new direction with some great accessories and tennis racket print sport coats. Thom Browne has been getting a lot of publicity these days between his runway shows, Pitti, his awards and his interesting take on menswear. I am happy to see more online and in Colette because its one of the only ways I can see his collections being in Canada. I did have a chance to go to his Hudson St. location in New York and really liked the shop. The spring collection has a definite increase in preppy-ness and sportswear references which make for an overall light and positive feeling. I'm definitely a fan of the tennis racket print, sweat bands, ties and great merchandising by Colette - as if you'd expect anything else.
I am increasingly becoming a huge fan of Thom Browne. Of course I don't own anything by him, but I will as soon as I can find something on sale, if that is possible. Anyways, this year Mr. Browne was invited to show at Pitti Uomo in Florence which has become renowned for it's extra special shows with a more creative twist. Thom Browne set out to not do a fashion show but instead created something far more interesting. 40 models wore identical Browne suits with a camel overcoat and a classic Thom Browne varsity cardigan hung next to them. His creative is so well balanced by his classic items with a slight twist. I find that aesthetically there is nobody better. He sees every angle and doesn't ever seem to hold back. Even though he claimed this was going to be an introductory show to the European market, I don't think he would have done it any other way. I think it's beautiful, the clothes are great and he is only getting better. Images via Mens.Style.com