Horween's blog is definitely worth a regular check as they give a nice amount of insight into projects they are working on with some of our favorite brands. This time they let us in on the leather treatment Yuketen have used on this fall's Maine Guide boots: "One of my favorite leathers, that sees relatively little production, is an article that we call Huntsman – or Waxed Flesh or French Waxed Calf. I would define it as high performance suede, but it’s not suede at all. This leather is made almost exactly the same way as our Chromexcel, instead we finish it on the flesh (or suede side). This colors, waxes, seals, and lays the nap of the flesh flat." — "This creates a textured look that’s great for casual applications, and striking in more formal uses. The Yuketen Maine Guide Boots shown in this post are an example of an unlined shoe, which is a particularly good use of this leather. I mean, the inside of the boot is usually the surface used for the outside. In the past we made Chromexcel for use in military boots that the Marines wore. The soldiers would then themselves heavily wax the outside of the shoes which would darken them and make them more water resistant – we point here for the inspiration for this tannage." —Horween
Entries in Yuketen (56)
I posted some Ring Boots by Quoddy in the last 'LOOK' update, and it was interesting to read the comments about people's preferences on which ring boot they like the most. I tracked down a few different models which I like the look of, but as a shoe I would be very particular about, I think the Quoddy or Yuketen would be my first choice. In fact, Yuketen make this ring boot with their crepe sole as well which is even better. Than cut of the ankle, the colour of the leather, the size of the mid-sole, the leather used and of course the type of sole are all things to consider. I'm not overly excited by some of the shoes with crepe soles climbing their way up and over the foot, but I think the balance and shape of the crepe on Quoddy's ring boot is just right. The sole on Arrow Mocs might be too thin for some, and wear out quickly. I might switch our their chrom-pac leather for something lighter or more pliable, such as something Yuketen uses. When it comes down to it, there are elements of each that I quite like, and maybe it will be possible to combine them in the future. In the meantime, I'd be interested to hear what style of ring boots you most like? I'm not even sure I've seen anyone wearing ring boots around the city to be honest, so do you even like any of these? —
One of my favourite shoes come fall is a pair of dirty bucks. While they are great all year around, I think the cooler, rougher months are a great time to beat up a tan or brown suede – especially if it comes on a sturdy Vibram sole. Yuketen's dirty bucks actually weren't apart of this fall's offering but if you hunt enough you may be able to get a pair from eBay or in Japan from Freak's Store. The classic Goodyear welt and solid low cut shoe is one of my favourites from the brand, and you can read a lot more about Yuki and his approach in our first issue of Inventory. If you miss out on the tan suede, I would recommend going straight to white for the spring. —
Yuketen's highly anticipated fall collection has now begun to hit retailers and there is really an interesting variety available. One of the most intriguing footwear designs from Yuki is the Ripple Sole Oxford. The ripple sole used to be used by American companies like Alden decades ago but has since seen production for US markets come to a cease. At first glance, it's really not something I would feel necessary for city living and wearing. However the look has grown on me lately and with it's paired upper of Yuketen's oxford design, I think I am into them. I would prefer to wear the shoe in a brown leather but the black could prove to be good choice for the depths of winter, or if you wanted to look like you were actually in an Engineered Garments look book. Available at Opening Ceremony
The finite details on the level of collaboration is yet to be determined, but the fact is The Bureau in Belfast have an exclusive Yuketen Maine Guide boot en route to their shop. The Maine Guide boot might be my favorite winter offering on planet earth right now. With the white Vibram sole, Goodyear Welt, stiff pebbled leather and sturdy height of the shoe, it's something you could wear 7 days a week in the middle of the cold and it would probably just look better. The seven eyelets make it fairly far up your leg so wearing you pants on top of the boots is a must. Whether you trying to catch a cab or taking a tree-worth of firewood back from the woods, there can't be a better option than this. They should be arriving soon so keep checking in at The Bureau - if not for the boots, their EG outerwear should be online this weekend.
Yuketen's fall collection is getting ready to start landing with the short list of stockists and there is one model on the top of my list. This 6" suede extension of the bucks come in sand, navy blue and white and look incredible. I don't think this shoe is going to be for everybody, but I would happily invest in any three of the offered colors, the hard part will just be tracking down a pair. I would probably go with the sand and navy first, as they would withstand the dirty fall grounds a little better. The sole is a great choice, the height is perfect and the simple cut, tonal eyelets and colorful lining top off one of my favorite shoes this fall. Apparently Opening Ceremony will be stocking this model so hopefully they arrive sooner than later, I know I've been checking the website regularly. No word on the price either, but I would imagine it will fall around $350-400 at retail stateside.
Is this not suppose to be one of the go-to magazines and/or websites in North America? After reading a very correctly worded post on The Selvedge Yard calling GQ, Getting Questionable, I still had some faith in this iconic American publication. I thought they could probably still hold it down online and help men find their way. Unfortunately hope is lost. While there were some spring trends predicted that weren't totally off the mark, like Ralph Lauren. (How is that a trend?) But specifically calling out an ugly D&G boat shoe that costs $500 US? Really? That's a trend? It could have simply been 'Boat Shoes' and then take a picture of 3 different ones, that cost less than a house in Fishtown. Then we come to the full outfits. While the poor fitting D 2squared looks from Italy aren't quite doing it for me, the styled model shots look about half as interesting as an Urban Outfitters mannequin. There were a couple gems in the mix such as Yuketen's mocassin, Supreme's parka and the Cresent Down Works Parka we blogged a little while back, for the most part, the article is, as usual, very uninspiring. The market is getting educated, we know you can do better, you have every resource at your fingertips - sell me something good.