Engineered Garments have grown their stable of outwear into an impressive array of light weight offerings. One of the new styles being introduced this spring is the Highland jacket. It sort of falls between the Engineered jacket and the Maine Guide jacket in my opinion. It borrows certain elements and shapes to create something unique that you easily could have found in the corner of a dusty old hunting store... or could you? I like the use of the light weight indigo on this jacket and it's counter part in Engineer form, but otherwise I wouldn't really consider the material for a jacket too often. I do have to say from a critical standpoint, I'm not a huge fan of the new, large branded buttons that Engineered Garments have begun using this season. They have carried through to fall '10 and I would personally prefer to see more donut buttons on indigo outerwear. That aside, the pockets, shape and minor details like rivets on the pockets and interior pouch pockets look fantastic and I'm definitely a fan. — Spotted at Mister Crew and available from Eggplant
Entries in Engineered Garments (185)
Last week in New York I had one item on my hit list and as a timely email came in from a thoughtful reader I was able to find my Newport at a much better price on sale. I really love the aesthetic of a double breasted jacket and I have been wanting to pair it up with a more casual pair of pants since my last LOOK post. The medium fit a bit more slim than expected but in a good way, so it worked nicely with a pair of fatigue pants, bow tie, oxford BD and our lovely Inventory Items Bucks - which are nearing sold out status. It was a tough decision between the navy serge wool and the grey tweed but I decided the grey would be best in terms of the other pieces I already had. It went straight to work as I finally had my nice mix of formal and very casual elements coming together or clashing, depending on your perspective. Either way, I'm happy about the jacket and I'll be wearing it regularly once my missing bag arrives back from New York.
The Engineered Garments spring collection has started landing in North American shops this week and we can now have a look at a handful of individual items for the season ahead. We mentioned the work shirts a few days back and we can now see that Odin have received a healthy selection including the exclusive red chambray. I'm pretty excited about the washed red in this fabric and made sure to secure my own from Drinkwater's this week. The 19th Century BDs are looking as sharp as ever in great plaids and a nice washed blue chambray. While the Bedford and Baker are familiar faces which come in lightweight cottons and linens this spring, it's worth while to note a couple of "new" jackets in the collection with the Irving jacket and the Mac jacket. Both offer their own unique attributes and fit seamlessly into the spring collection. —
The Engineered Garments work shirt is admittedly the most popular item from the collection, and why wouldn't it be? It's definitely one of my favorite items in my closet, as it probably spends more time on my back than on a hanger. This spring the shirt is coming in one of the best colour selections to date. The chambray colours will include green, black, grey, blue and a special run of red chambray only available at Odin, The Bureau and Drinkwater's. There are a few patterned cotton shirts as well this spring, but the only alternative to chambray that I'm really after is the white herringbone version. A white work shirt might not be easy to keep clean in the field, but I am figuring I should be fine working at the computer in it. I'm not usually a big herringbone fan when it comes to shirting, but the pattern is so subtle and the white tone just seems to work nicely with it. Sometimes I feel a white BD oxford can feel a little too formal, even if untucked and casually worn, so I feel a shirt like this will pleasantly fill any gaps and be in heavy rotation this fall. The first shipments are due to land in North America and Europe in the next couple of weeks. I'm quite sure this blue chambray is cut from the same cloth as last spring's version. It's my favorite shirt and I've been able to wear it with ties, on it's own, layered under fine knitwear and in pretty much any other way you might want to. I think the cut, stitching, collar size and sleeves are all really nicely balanced and it just feels right on. —
I hope you all had a wonderful Christmas, and what could be a better present to top if off than with a look at the Engineered Garments Spring–Summer 2010 collection. After two of the strongest collections on the market in 2009, Engineered Garments now give us a look at what's to come in the next few months. The focus as usual starts with fabrics for Mr. Suzuki as the collection features the stable of great chambrays, most notably the blue that was featured on a lot more than just the work shirts. Another new fabric this spring is the metallic cotton that comes in a bit of a stone/olive tone, which can be seen in the image with the large duffle bag. The material has a starchy feel to it and gives an interesting look in certain lighting. Although it wasn't my favorite part of the collection, it's always interesting to see the brand experiment with different materials. I thought the variety of prints on both camp shirts, club collars and fleece all came out perfectly and offered a great array of more casual garments, which of course come in handy during summer months. The lightweight cotton plaids featured on the 19th Century BDs look perfect and are sure to be a popular item for those accustom to the block. While the shirting and lightweight jackets are always strong – especially the linen Bedford jackets - I felt that the spring’s pant offerings were really great. The red slacks and the off-white flecked camp pants were both on my personal order for the spring and I'm looking forward to them more than ever. The drawstring bottom has carried over from the fall pants, which adds a nice option, although I will more than likely stick to my rolling ways. Finally, the coveted work shirt will be out in full force. It comes in a variety of patterns; cottons, open weave and chambray – but my top choices are a white herringbone, green chambray and an exclusive red chambray that will apparently only be available at Drinkwater's, Odin and The Bureau. — The collection will being delivering in North America and Europe within the first couple weeks of January and has already hit shelves in Japan with limited pieces. You can be sure we'll be featuring our favorite pieces over the next few months on the updates and in editorial form. The styling by EG is not always for everyone, but it communicates the collection's feeling and overall approach. The selection is so deep, and there are many styles not seen here, so as usual it will take some digging and personal interpretation to make it yours - which is the fun part.
Engineered Garments Spring collection have started landing in selection Japanese stores so it's time to start previewing some of the items we'll soon be lusting after locally. One of the items I seemed to have missed in the showroom was the polka dot club collar shirt. I especially like the white with black dots, which are a little bigger and have a bit more space to float around. I've seen a number of white shirts I'm quite fond of coming for spring and I'd expect that to be a sign of things to come, or things I'll be wearing. The size of the collar on EG's club style is the perfect size. It works great with a bow tie; looks very natural and tidy alone, and with the nice pattern would look great with a number of spring ensembles. I believe these shirts are on the same block as the tab collar shirts from this fall, not the 19th Century - which I like in terms of placket and buttons, but hopefully they will be cut a bit smaller this spring - I'm officially excited for spring now by the way.
It's no surprise I'm highlighting fatigue pants here as they've been showing up on the blog regularly for months now - from both Simon and myself. I feel like they are one of the best looking casual pants I could wear. I love the obvious military reference but with no big cargo pockets, they are much easier to mix into your daily wardrobe and get lots of wear from. Whether you pair them up with moccasins, boots or white bucks - as I plan doing regularly this spring - the fatigue pant is quite diverse and is well worth having on hand. The tough part can be finding a good pair however. Although they don't show up online, J.Crew apparently have a good offering and for the price it's probably thee easiest option. I have their fatigue shorts and am a big fan of those. I personally really like the Workaday version Engineered Garments have made this fall. The sateen twill was a nice fabric choice, but I wasn't in love with it until I saw the version pictured after the link. It was put through a single wash cycle with an unknown chemical to give the cotton a little bit more of a rough feeling. They came out perfectly and you can see them in action in our latest online issue, Fall Edits. Above you can see that Daiki is truly a fan of the pant as well - these are his choice outfits to pair up with his array of army green pants. There does seem to be a similar theme on top, but you can see the aesthetic and casual nature the pants lend themselves to quite nicely. —
Sure, we did visit Mr. Suzuki at the New York Nepenthes offices, but this time Stan Parish of GQ made the trip. The report offers some insight into Daiki's day and his long hours in the studio. Designing your own collection as extensive as Engineered Garments is harder than any job I can imagine, but Mr. Suzuki does two which is well beyond normal. He speaks on his recently found passion for surfing and it's effect and inspiration on Woolrich Woolen Mills SS10 collection specifically. It's one of my favorite collections from the upcoming season and unsurprisingly Daiki Suzuki is one of my favorite designers. It's always interesting to get another peek into the office and to hear about the little things that shape and form the products we love in the end. — A Day with Daiki — How he starts his day: I get a cup of coffee on the corner, first thing in the morning. I check emails at my desk, maybe do some paperwork. And when I’m ready, I just come here. This round table is where all the planning and designing happens. Where he got it: I got the table off the street about 10 years ago in Tribeca. I was drunk, and I was walking after midnight, and I saw this table. It was so heavy, we needed three people, so I got two friends of mine, and the three of us loaded it up. Ever since, it’s been the planning table. What he does there: I draw most of the time. Before the process I have so many ideas, but the hard part is how you pick things, and put them together to make them look like what you want. In the beginning it’s really busy inside the brain, but you’re not actually moving anything; it’s working, but it doesn’t really look like working. Working tunes: Today it’s classical, but sometimes it’s ’70s American rock. I love music from England; I was really into New Wave. I still go see Echo and the Bunnymen. Those guys are still doing great. How he gets is all done: I come here very early in the morning, when no one is around. There’s a good two hours with maybe one other person here. After 5:00 or 6:00 p.m., everybody leaves, so I get two or three hours that I can be here alone. I actually come here every weekend, too. I go surfing in the morning and then I come back in the city around 12 or 1 o’clock. I shower, get dressed, and come up here. I stay all night—sometimes I fall asleep here, if I’ve used too much energy in the water. Where he surfs: Long Beach, NY. Me and my friends get together at 5:00 in the morning, get out there at 6:30, watch the sun come up, and jump in the water. Why he surfs: It’s becoming a bigger and bigger thing for me. When you work like this, you need a break. Just to go out there, and be in the ocean, is really great for me. I can’t live without it now. I work so hard on the weekdays, but I’m always thinking about the weekend, and how the waves are going to be. I never surfed until last summer, but I love the culture, the fashion. I grew up in Japan in the 1970s and at that time we got so much inspiration from the states. Everything was new to us. One of the first things that came from the states was a west coast lifestyle like skateboard and surfing—the pocket tee shirts, the Ocean Pacific corduroy shorts, and windbreakers. All those kind of things. What I did for Woolrich for next spring was based on what I remember from my teenage years.